Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and travelers alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a select list of global cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it enters a global network of cities urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "is a testament to its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and dynamic culinary scene," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this time-honored city arrives as hardly a shock to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, bustling, and eclectic city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the limelight for what has consistently defined its soul: an immense devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a constant discussion from waking up until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, refined, and elevated to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on every corner, there are small establishments and carts – lesser-known gems that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in kulhads, along with fluffy buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a no-frills joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and involved. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their children are reluctant to take up the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will encourage more people globally to discover these tales and visit the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
